Top 10 places to visit in VANCOUVER Canada

1.. CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT

M Canada Place The stunning architectural curiosity with the billowing 27-meter-high (88 feet) Teflon-coated fiberglass “sails” on Burrard Inlet—the one that looks as if it might weigh anchor and cruise off into the sunset at any moment—is Canada Place, a symbol of Vancouver and a city icon. Built as the Canada Pavilion for Expo86, this integrated two-hectare (six-acre) waterfront complex is primarily a convention center and cruise-ship dock. The Vancouver Convention Centre, which makes up the bulk of the complex, has been expanded to triple its size at adjacent Burrard Landing, in a half-billion-dollar expansion project that has changed the face of the downtown waterfront. The original complex at the foot of Burrard Street also houses the luxurious 405-room Pan Pacific Hotel (the glass marvel with domed top), restaurants, shops, and an IMAX theater. Start your self-guided tour at the information booth near the main entrance; then allow at least an hour to wander through the complex. Don’t miss walking the exterior promenade—3.5 city blocks long—for splendid views of the harbor, the North Shore, the Coast Mountains, and docked Alaska-bound cruise ships. On the west side of the center is an expansive garden of indigenous plants.

2..Vancouver Art Gallery

Francis Rattenbury, architect of Victoria’s Empress Hotel and many other masterpieces, designed Vancouver’s imposing neoclassical-revival courthouse, which now houses the Vancouver Art Gallery (750 Hornby St., 604/662-4700, 10am-5pm daily, until 9pm on Tues., adult $22.50, senior $17.50, student $16, child $8). Initially, the courthouse faced Georgia Street, and although the exterior retains its original 1911 design, the main entrance is now on Robson Street. Arthur Erickson, a prominent Vancouver architect, renovated the interior in 1982. The gallery houses a large collection of works by Canada’s preeminent female artist, Emily Carr, who was born on Vancouver Island in 1871 and traveled the world honing her painting and drawing skills before settling in Vancouver in 1906. Her style reflects the time she spent with the native peoples of the Pacific Northwest coast, but she was also influenced by techniques acquired during periods when she lived in London and Paris. Carr combined these influences to create unique works, and the gallery is well worth visiting for these alone. The Carr collection is on the third floor, along with the works of many other local artists. The gallery also holds pieces by contemporary artists from North America and Europe as well as an impressive collection of historical art. Guided tours are available. Kids will enjoy the children’s gallery, and adults will appreciate the special-events program, including a lecture series, films, and concerts. The gift shop sells a wide selection of art books, jewelry, and gifts, and the gallery café is always crowded. Robson Square The late 1960s saw a renaissance of civic buildings in major cities across the country, and Vancouver was no exception. An entire block was designated for a new courthouse complex, replacing the original across Robson Street. Architect Arthur Erickson’s unique design incorporates street-level public spaces adorned with sculptures and the Law Courts, a magnificent glass structure signifying an open and accessible court system.

3.. Cathedral Place

Cathedral Place is worth visiting for an intriguing sculpture, Navigational Device, located in the lobby. The high-rise, built in 1991, replaced a classic art deco building. To placate opposition to the construction, architects incorporated various art deco elements into its design and even a copper-colored roof similar to that of the nearby Hotel Vancouver. Next door to Cathedral Place is the Hongkong Bank building, which features a massive 27-meter (88-foot) aluminum pendulum in the lobby. Next door again, on the corner of West Georgia and Burrard Streets, is Christ Church Cathedral. When built in 1895, it was in the heart of a residential area. Over the ensuing century, it was engulfed by modern developments and is today Vancouver’s oldest church, attracting more sightseers than believers. Across West Georgia Street from these buildings is the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver (900 W. Georgia St.). Built in 1887, the original hotel on this site featured 200 rooms, half of which had private bathrooms, unheard of in that day. It burned to the ground in 1932 and was replaced by the hotel that stands today, whose distinctive château-style design topped by a copper roof reflects the heritage of hotels across the country that were built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad (CPR).

4..WEST END

The West End (not to be confused with the West Side, located south of downtown, or West Vancouver, located on the north side of the harbor) lies west of the central business district, between Burrard Street and English Bay Beach, the gateway to Stanley Park. On foot, walk along Robson Street and then south on Denman Street to reach pretty, park-fringed English Bay Beach. The golden sands, tree-shaded grassy roadsides, and sidewalks at the west end of the West End are popular with walkers, joggers, cyclists, and sun worshippers year-round. The West End was first developed in the late 1800s, when the Canadian Pacific Railroad began building large homes for its high-ranking officials, with other wealthy families following. In 1901 a streetcar line opened down Robson Street, linking downtown to English Bay Beach and in the process increasing the popularity of the West End as a summer getaway. As real estate prices across the city rose in the 1930s and 1940s, many of the original mansions were replaced by apartment buildings. Today around 43,000 residents call the West End home, living in ritzy condos, high-rise apartment blocks, and the occasional Edwardian- and Queen Anne-era home. (It’s one of Canada’s most densely populated neighborhoods, with 115 residential units for every hectare—almost 10 times the city average.) As well as living closer together than elsewhere in Vancouver, the population is on average younger than in the rest of the city, with half of the residents between 20 and 40 years old. Wander down Robson or Denman Street and you’ll soon see the appeal of the urban lifestyle afforded by life in the West End—the endless outdoor cafés, wide range of dining choices, fashionable boutiques, the sandy beaches of English Bay, and the proximity of Stanley Park.

5.. VANCOUVER AQUARIUM

A short walk through the forest from Klahowya Village is Vancouver Aquarium (Avison Way., 604/659-3474, 9:30am-7pm daily in summer, 10am-5pm daily the rest of the year, adult $32, senior and student $26, child $21), Canada’s largest and the third largest in North America. Guarding the entrance is a 5-meter (16-foot) killer whale sculpture by preeminent native artist Bill Reid. More than 8,000 aquatic animals and 600 species are on display, representing all corners of the planet, from the oceans of the Arctic to the rainforests of the Amazon. The Wild Coast exhibit features local marine mammals, including sea lions, dolphins, and seals. Several other exhibits highlight regional marinelife, including Pacific Canada, the first display you’ll come to through the aquarium entrance. Pacific Canada is of particular interest because it contains a wide variety of sealife from the Gulf of Georgia, including the giant fish of the deep, halibut, and playful sea otters that frolic in the kelp. In the Amazon Gallery, experience a computer-generated hourly tropical rainstorm and see numerous fascinating creatures, such as crocodiles and piranhas, as well as bizarre misfits like the four-eyed fish. The Tropic Zone re-creates an Indonesian marine park, complete with colorful sealife, coral, and small reef sharks. At the far end of the aquarium, a large pool holding beluga whales—distinctive pure white marine mammals—and sea lions, which can be viewed from above- or below ground, represents Canada’s Arctic. A part of the complex is also devoted to the rehabilitation of injured marine mammals; Clownfish Cove is set aside especially for younger visitors; and there’s a packed interpretive program of talks and tours, including a 90-minute behind-the-scenes beluga tour for $130 per person.

6.. SEAWALL

The following sights are listed from the information booth, which overlooks Coal Harbour, in a counterclockwise direction. From this point, Stanley Park Drive and the Seawall Promenade pass the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club and Deadman’s Island. Now a naval reserve, the island has a dark history, having witnessed many battles between native tribes, been the burial place of the last of the Coast Salish people, and been used as a quarantine station during an early smallpox epidemic. Off the island is a floating gas station, used by watercraft and floatplanes. The first worthwhile stop at Brockton Point (which refers to the entire eastern tip of the park) is a collection of authentic totem poles from the Kwagiulth people, who lived along the coast north of present-day Vancouver. Before rounding the actual point, you’ll pass the Nine o’Clock Gun, which is fired each evening at, you guessed it, 9pm. Its original purpose was to allow ship captains to set their chronometers to the exact time. Much of the Brockton Point peninsula is dedicated to sporting fields, and on any sunny afternoon young Vancouverites can be seen playing traditional British pursuits, such as rugby and cricket. Around the point, the road and the seawall continue to hug the shoreline, passing the famous Girl in Wetsuit bronze sculpture and a figurehead commemorating Vancouver’s links to Japan. Then the two paths divide. The seawall passes directly under the Lions Gate Bridge, which made the North Shore accessible to development after its 1938 opening. Meanwhile, the vehicular road loops back to a higher elevation to Prospect Point Lookout, a memorial to the SS Beaver (which was the first HBC steamship to travel along this stretch of the coast), and a café (a stairway leads up from the seawall to the café). The Lions Gate Bridge marks the halfway point of the seawall as well as a change in scenery. From this point to Second Beach, the views are westward toward the Strait of Georgia and across English Bay to Central Vancouver. The next stretch of pleasant pathway, about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) long, is sandwiched between the water and steep cliffs, with Siwash Rock being the only distinctive landmark. This volcanic outcrop sits just offshore, rising more than 15 meters (50 feet) from the lapping waters of English Bay. If you’re traveling along Stanley Park Drive, park at the Hollow Tree and walk back up the hill to a lookout high above the rock. Continuing south, the seawall and Stanley Park Drive converge at the south end of Third Beach, a popular swimming and sunbathing spot (and a great place to watch the setting sun). The beach’s southern end is guarded by Ferguson Point, where a fountain marks the final resting spot of renowned native poet Pauline Johnson. Second Beach is 1 kilometer (0.6 mile) farther back toward the city, where you’ll find an outdoor swimming pool, a pitch-and-putt golf course, a putting green, tennis courts, and lawn bowling greens. On summer evenings an area behind the beach is set aside for local dance clubs to practice their skills. From Second Beach it’s only a short distance to busy Denman Street and English Bay Beach, or you can cut across the park back to Coal Harbour.

7.. M GASTOWN

Just three blocks east of Canada Place, Gastown is a marvelous place to spend a few hours. It was the birthplace of Vancouver, officially named Granville in 1870 but always known as Gastown, for saloon owner “Gassy Jack” Deighton. The Great Fire of 1886 destroyed almost all of Gastown’s wooden buildings, but the district was rebuilt in stone and brick. By 1900 the heart of the city had moved away from the waterfront, and as Gastown declined in importance it became rundown. By the 1960s this historical district held nothing more than decrepit Victorian-era buildings and empty warehouses. The government originally planned to redevelop the entire district, with intentions to construct an expressway through the heart of Gastown. The public outcry was loud and clear; Vancouverites were becoming more aware of their heritage. The plans were scuttled and Gastown was saved. A massive rejuvenation program commenced, and today historical Gastown is one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions. Tree-lined cobblestone streets and old gas lamps front brightly painted, restored buildings that hold galleries, restaurants, and an abundance of gift and souvenir shops. As you first enter Water Street, you’re greeted by The Landing, a seven-story heritage building that has had its exterior restored to its former glory and its interior transformed from a warehouse into an upmarket shopping arcade. It also holds several eateries and the Steamworks Brewing Co., a brew pub-restaurant boasting harbor views. Next door to The Landing is Hudson House, built in 1897 as a warehouse and retail outlet for the Hudson’s Bay Company.

8.. EASTSIDE

Vancouver’s Eastside neighborhood lies between touristy Gastown and bustling Chinatown but is a world away from both. Although it holds little of interest to modern-day visitors, it has an interesting history and is a real eye-opener. The beginnings of Vancouver’s development are usually attributed to Gassy Jack, who opened his saloon to serve workers from a sawmill that operated to the east, on a spit of land beyond the foot of today’s Dunlevy Street. Mill workers could also find accommodation there, and Alexander Street developed as a residential area, with commercial buildings clustered around the intersection of Main and Hastings Streets. Around 1900, these early Vancouver businesses relocated to the heart of modern-day downtown, and residents who could afford it followed, settling in the West End. Eastside then became home to mostly working-class families, single men, and newly arrived immigrants. Japanese were the most prominent group of Eastside immigrants, settling around Oppenheimer Park and opening businesses along Powell Street in an area that became known as Japantown. Most local Japanese were interned during World War II, and Japantown was all but abandoned. Today Eastside has the lowest median income of all Vancouver neighborhoods, just one-quarter of the city’s average. These low-income residents live in old hotels and boardinghouses, mostly in what are known locally as single-room occupancy units (SROs). Because the SROs lack living areas and often kitchens, these residents spend their days outside their cramped accommodations, gathered on the streets and in local squares and parks. East Hastings Street, between Carrall and Main Streets, is infamous across the country as a hangout for down-and-outs and is best avoided day or night. Civic pride has been a long time coming but is slowly creeping into parts of Eastside. Redevelopment of the immediate waterfront was jumpstarted in the 1990s with the opening of Ballantyne Pier as a second cruise ship dock; old Japantown is slowly regaining its original character; and new high-density housing projects are replacing the old. Of Eastside’s 20 heritage-listed buildings, 2 are worth searching out. The Carnegie Reading Room at the busy East Hastings and Main Streets intersection, opened in 1902 as Vancouver’s first permanent library, with an upstairs collection of artifacts that were collected by the local history association and were to become the nucleus of the Museum of Vancouver. Blending architectural styles, this imposing stone structure at the head of Vancouver’s most infamous street now serves as a much-used community center and a gathering point for social activists. The other building of note is the 1936 St. James Anglican Church .a classic example of the moderne architectural style, complete with a slate roof, belfry, and colorful lancet windows. Eastside’s only official sight is the Vancouver Police Museum (240 E. Cordova St., 604/665-3346, 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat., adult $12, senior $10, child $8), one block north of the Hastings and Main intersection. It catalogs the history of Vancouver’s police and the notorious criminals they chased. Formerly a courthouse, the museum houses historical police equipment, some intriguing seized items, and re-creations of the city’s most famous crime scenes. To get there from downtown, avoid walking the length of East Hastings Street and instead take bus 3, 4, 7, or 8 north along Granville Mall.

9.. CHINATOWN

The first Chinese came to the city in the 1880s to help the rail line construction. In total, the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) employed 17,000 Chinese, and most settled around an area known as Shanghai Alley, at the west end of today’s Chinatown. The Chinese cleared the surrounding land and began growing produce that was sold at markets along what is now Pender Street. The face of Chinatown changed dramatically through the second half of the 20th century, as the local population gained civic pride, and loosening immigration restrictions in 1967 saw the population grow quickly with Chinese from around the world. New community facilities were built, restaurants and westernized stores opened, and the streets came alive during traditional celebrations and street fairs. The heart of Chinatown has moved eastward over the years and is now centered on the block bordered by Main, East Pender, Gore, and Keefer Streets. With a population exceeding 30,000, it is the second-largest Chinese community in North America and one of the largest outside Asia. Stroll through the neighborhood to admire the architecture—right down to the pagoda-roofed telephone booths—or to seek out one of the multitude of restaurants. You’ll find markets and genuine Cantonese-style cuisine east of Main Street and tamer Chinese-Canadian dishes along Main Street and to the west. Chinatown is an exciting place any time of year, but it’s especially lively during a Chinese festival or holiday, when thronging masses follow the ferocious dancing dragon, avoid exploding firecrackers, sample tasty tidbits from outdoor stalls, and pound their feet to the beat of drums. The district’s intriguing stores sell a mind-boggling array of Chinese goods—wind chimes, soy sauce, teapots, dried mushrooms, delicate paper fans, and much, much more. Along Main Street several shops sell ginseng, sold by the Chinese ounce (38 grams). Cultivated ginseng costs from $10 per ounce, but wild ginseng goes for up to $400 per ounce. In addition to selling the herb, the staff at Ten Ren Tea and Ginseng Co. (550 Main St., 604/684-1566) explains ginseng preparation methods to buyers and offers tea tasting as well. To get to Chinatown from downtown catch bus 19 or 22 east along Pender Street. Try to avoid East Hastings Street at all times; it’s Vancouver’s skid row, inhabited by unsavory characters day and night.

10.. YALETOWN

In the mid-1880s, land was set aside on the north side of False Creek for the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) to build engine yards, thus moving existing facilities from Yale, along the Fraser River Canyon. The area quickly became a hive of activity. Canvas camps set up by the original work gangs were slowly replaced by semipermanent structures, with the CPR providing shacks for married men and a barge moored in False Creek for single men. Although separated from downtown by total wilderness, other businesses sprang up. Centered around the Yale Hotel on the corner of Granville and Drake Streets, they served workers and helped create Vancouver’s first official suburb. Jump forward 100 years and through a variety of transformations to the early 1990s, and Yaletown’s empty warehouses and rundown industrial streets were in desperate need of revitalization. Nearby Granville Island had been transformed in the 1970s; much of False Creek had been revitalized for Expo86; and modern residential towers had been constructed across the water. In contrast, the area between Homer Street and the waterfront, bordered by Drake Street to the west and Nelson Street to the east, was left a relic from the past. The rundown feel of Yaletown began changing in the early 1990s, and by the end of the decade, its once-empty buildings had become a hotbed of high-tech. Brick warehouses, originally built for the garment trade, were revitalized. Old loading docks created the ideal environment for artists and architects to ply their trade. A large tract of industrial wasteland was rezoned for a high-tech park that catered to the needs of knowledge-based companies. Finally, the old cafés and corner stores were replaced by trendy bistros, gourmet supermarkets, specialty retail shops, and one of the world’s hippest hostelries, the Opus Hotel.